Makiya Village, my village and
home, is a tiny place made up of eleven huts in the shape of a Q. And since my
compound is set just outside the main village, my hut acts like the Q’s tail.
It
isn’t likely to be on any map except Google Maps where I finally found, after
10 minutes of searching, what I’m almost certain is my hut and the huts of
Makiya Village.
My village via Google Maps. |
It
isn’t much to see in person — just a few grass thatched huts — but it’s home
just the same and those who live here are about as close to a Zambian family as
I will ever get.
Kasongo, the one on the right that isn't engulfed in his phone, is one of my favorite members of my Zambian Nuclear Family. He is my brother from a different mother. |
About
65 men, women and children — all of them related in some manner as cousins,
aunts, uncles, brothers, etc. — live in my village’s 11 huts. In this one
village there are four generations of the Baboon clan.
Of
the 65 people in the village, the majority are children. They say it takes a
village to raise a child, and with so many kids scurrying around, over, and
under everything, it’s good they’re all related because no one mother could
keep an eye on them all. I once saw a woman give a pretty serious spanking to
her niece after she had pushed down a cousin that belonged to another sister.
In
the village hierarchy there is Mr. Fred Fubisha, the village headman. Formerly
one of the best bush hunters in the area, his body is now wracked by rheumatoid
arthritis and his mobility has been greatly reduced. But his mind remains as
sharp as ever.
Mr. Fubisha - Headman of Makiya Village |
He’s
not the oldest person in Makiya Village, though. That designation belongs to
his mother, Nelo, who seems to play the role of stern, respected, wizened
matriarch to perfection at 80-plus years of age. She’s no pushover.
After
the headman comes the head of each household, and for my village, those are
mainly the mothers. For whatever reason there are only four huts with men
always present. Sometimes due to employment opportunities elsewhere, death,
divorce or other issues, the women largely dominate the social landscape in
this village.
Grandma Nelo - The Stern But Fair Grandmother of Makiya Village |
And
that’s a good thing for me because it means that I basically have nine mothers
and one stern, but fair, grandmother keeping an eye out for me.
For
example, last year I got really sick from an especially bad case of food
poisoning. Throughout the day, all of them would stop by to check on me and see
if I needed anything, even going so far as to empty my bedside bucket.
They
think that I’m something more than just a helpless volunteer that’s been
implanted into their community.
Recently,
one woman claimed that she considered me to be her first-born child (an honor
in Zambia) in front of her actual first born and a gathering of villagers. Kind
of awkward, I know, but he later told me he took no offense to her comment.
For
all the female involvement, there is absolutely preferential treatment among
the children. Due to typically large families (six children on average) and
limited funding, boys are sent to school before girls and there is a
discrepancy between how long they’re sent (the older children go for much
longer).
Although both in their early 20's these two women already have two children apiece. |
There’s
one man in Makiya who can speak English incredibly well because of a decent
education, while a younger brother speaks only the local languages due to less
educational opportunities.
This
overall scenario of my village’s makeup is similar throughout rural Zambia
where the Zambian nuclear family greatly outnumbers the American version by at
least 2 to 1.
Even
the proximity of family members to one another is like this throughout the
country. There may be a cousin, sibling or child who acts as the outlier and
has moved away to a better job somewhere else, but mostly they live in large
familial clusters.
Some
villages may have huts numbering more than 100, but I’m thankful for my small
village. I know everyone, they know me, and we get along perfectly.
It’s
an ideal setting that allows me to have a safe community, local friends and
experience firsthand the happenings of an African village and its nuclear
family.
The newest addition to Makiya Village, my neighbor Anna's baby. |
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