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Friday, May 2, 2014

Weather in Zambia = 81 and Something


Here is the typical weather report from Zambia: 81 degrees and sunny; 81 degrees and partly sunny; 81 degrees with a chance of showers.
It really doesn’t matter what the report says because in Zambia it’s probably going to be 81 degrees with the clouds doing some meteorological thing.
Zambia’s weather is considerably less of a mystery than Michigan’s and requires very little in the way of wishful thinking about how to prepare for the day. There are few surprises here with the elements and the only thing I consider is if I should bring a raincoat with me for the day, and that’s only for half of the year.
During the dry season nearly all watering is done by hand - using only 20-liter buckets and strong backs.
That’s because Zambia receives rain during a very specific time of the year — and it’s known as the rainy season, obviously.
Rainy season typically starts in late October for the northern latitudes of Zambia (the high rainfall regions), and mid-November for the rest of the country. These rains replenish the land and bring nourishment to the people.
Rainy season is when Zambian agriculture is at its fullest potential with crops like corn, cotton and beans being planted around the country. Depending on where a person is in Zambia the growing season can be as short as 80 days or as long as 200 — it’s entirely dependent upon rainfall.
Zambia is divided into three rainfall zones, known to science nerds as Agro-Ecological Zones, or simply AEZs.
Here, my neighbor Mr. Sandonji uses his water pump and a fire hose to irrigate his garden's tomatoes.
AEZ 1 is the lowest rainfall area of Zambia. Lying just north of Zambia’s border with Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia this area receives less than 32 inches of rain per year.
AEZ 2 is next and just north of the previously mentioned area where rainfall annually accumulates to somewhere between 32 and 40 inches of rainfall per year.
The highest rainfall area, AEZ 3, receives more than 40 inches of rain per year and some areas as much 55 inches. This is where I live.
Corn/maize is one of the most important crops here in Zambia.  It's a cash crop and the staple food crop.  Mainly grown in the rainy season, seasonal rains are required to grow the food, which is used throughout the year.
Rainy season is my favorite time of year in Zambia because absolutely anything will grow and it’s amazing to watch the lightning as a big storm approaches. But it has its drawback in that at just over 5 1/2 months long, that’s a lot of rain.
At the other end of the spectrum is Zambia’s dry season, which is actually one season split into two parts: the cold dry season and the hot dry season.
Cold dry season is actually colder than you might expect for a place that is 81 degrees nearly every day.
Break out the jeans, sweatshirts, scarf (if you have one) and sleeping bag because the nights during this time will cause a serious shiver.
Although a far cry from the brutal, frigid, flash freeze temperatures that much of the United States has experienced this winter, I can still see my breath at night. However, the afternoon will nearly always be 81 degrees and partly sunny. No kidding.
This season is also when local gardeners begin their gardens.
So long as the garden is near a water source, these gardeners will tend to rows and rows of vegetables. They would love to garden during rainy season too, but the rains are so heavy that different types of fungus will flourish without treatments and that’s often unavailable locally or too expensive. Dry season provides an ideal climate.
Myself and my main man Mr. Nshimbi in his peanut field, with maize/corn behind us.   Both crops are irrigated through natural rains, not using irrigation. 
Hot dry season is the one deviation from the norm. It can easily be 90 to 100 degrees with sunny skies and lots of dust. Always dust. The dust gets absolutely everywhere: eyes, hair, teeth and the indention just above my eyelids.
I wish I could say that it’s only during these months of hot air slamming against me that I sweat, but I can’t because I’m pretty much a sweaty mess all the time; no matter the season. Once, I actually scared a woman when I showed up at her field covered in sweat. All I had done was ride my bike to meet her.
I noticed her startled state and tried to reassure her that I was OK by telling her that this look was normal for me. Sweating profusely is what I do.
In fact, as I write this I’m feeling a little sweaty beneath this mango tree — probably because it’s 81 degrees and sunny.

Thursday, May 1, 2014

A Short Story to a Group of Departing Friends


I wrote this story for all of my friends that came in with me to Zambia in Feb. 2012.  Our two years just ended and many of them went home.  They were all equally unique and outstandingly interesting.  When leaving Peace Corps, volunteers have a "ring out ceremony," which marks the end of their service.  This was read to everyone at that ceremony.  Most of the jokes are for them, but maybe it's still a little amusing without knowing all the small nuances?

Deep in the heart of Africa stood a Blue Devil.  Gordon Motsinger was his name and he was in the Central Africa, drawn by his interest in birds.  He was on an expedition, a bird survey to study the rarest of birds found only in Zambia.

Before he could set out he stopped in Kabulonga and talked to a local expert about where he may find Zambia’s most exotic species.  Ba Don leaned back in the chair when Gordy walked in and after listening to his inquisition chuckled softly to himself, hummed a little bit, then said some seemingly mysterious things, and out Gordon went – more confused than before.  “Wait, what does that mean?  What did he say?  Huh?” He wondered.

To the North-West he travelled first.  Immediately he spotted a chickadee?  No, wait, it was a Vermont Paradee.  Seen only in pairs, they mate for life – a thing of beauty.  He left without contra dancing westward to Mufumbwe District.  No way he’d go there he thought, for only Chief Blekking of the Kaondes can stand to go to a place "Where The Streets Have No Name".[1]

With the magic in his step of NWP he leapt the Leopold Pinnacle.  Peace Corps said he couldn’t step there, so he flew to Ruapura.  Near the water he saw the chicken man, and asked, “Ba Stefan, is there a bird so rare it’s seen no where else but hele?”

Stefan stepped back from the hens and felt his unkempt beard and replied, “One? We’ve got two!  The Wisco Lippe – an unusually kind bird – and the Idaho Jenkins – a bird with Kopala Swag… often seen in Zampop videos[2].  Both are quite beautiful and rare.  Ruapura without a Wisco Lippe and an Idaho Jenkins is like the Congo… there will be chaos and travel restrictions.”[3]

To Mambweland Gordon travelled next.  And there on the shores of Tang he stumbled upon a unique but rather shirtless character with an immovable smile that was busy patching a boat.[4]  Gordon asked, “I say, I’ve heard there’s a specific Pacific bird found nearby.  Do you know about it?” The boatsman, still shirtless, looked up and brushed away the hair from his eyes and beamed a response, “Yes, it’s a Chan-dra.[5]  A bird of tanned plumage, but the only way to view it is at night and you’ll have to play salsa music for it to appear.”  Dejected, Gordon said he only had contra music on his iPod.  Maybe he would try on another trip. 

“Aw, sorry to hear that.  It’s a real beauty.  G’luck, brother.” And off sailed the Smiling man in pursuit of the day’s catch.

He meandered his way south to the greater Kasama area.  There he saw a bird quietly sifting through some ashes – the Steen Sparrow.[6]  

That night, quietly lying beneath the stars, Gordon heard a rhythm – musical rhythm – like entrance music… Swedish House Mafia it was.  A ghost appeared: the ghost of Drew.  He said, “Let me tell you something [Gordon]; Everybody gets one chance to do something great. Most people never take the chance, either because they're too scared, or they don't recognize it when it spits on their shoes.”[7]

Just then the Ozoma Owl – found deep in the bush and often used for traditional medicines by villagers pooped on Gordon’s shoe.   In the morning, with a new pep in his step from seeing Drew and a slightly soiled left shoe, Gordon took on the new day and the first bird he saw was spectacular - the red feathered Lauren.  Soul-less in flight, its mating call is a dancing stomp.[8]

Upon leaving Kasama he danced his way toward the great North Road where he came upon a second traveler, although this one was weary.  The traveler claimed his name was UK or England or Britain or something sounding royal and said he was having bike troubles: his 821st flat tire.  While discussing, the cyclist mentioned that they needed to get moving fast as light was fading.  Safety and Security were becoming a concern.  In the nearby forests a mad man lurked. 

Occasionally bearded and wrapped in a do-rag, Ephraim scoured and hid among the trees.  They needed to go before he would enact his wrath.  Off cycled Britain and over the mountains to Lundazi Gordon did dance.

Gordon was sad to find no birds in Lundazi as it’s a treeless landscape – man’s hunger for timber had claimed nature’s beauty.  While wiping a tear from his eye, Gordon smelled the aroma of a delicious dish being made.  He followed his nose and came to the House of Hess – a delicatessen of such high quality that its equal had never even been seen in Europe. 

There at an opposing table lounged a man named Ross.  Seems he had no care, worry, or motivation in the world.  Without a word he pointed Gordon to the rest of Eastern and made the motions of a bird. 

Thinking it time to move on, Gordon set out again.  This time to Eastern where he quickly came across the squawking Fiona Finch, which looks very similar to the finches seen throughout the British lowlands.  Next was the Winged Wilson Wren, which is endemic to the hills of Chadiza.  

After taking some photographs and field notes Gordon set off, where he nearly immediately met a very kind woman, named Sophie.  He explained his interests in birds and although Sophie knew nothing of birds she told him he may be interested to meet a certain local legend: Caleb.  She escorted him to Petauke where he found the Hebrew Hammerkop.  Gordon, Caleb, and Sophie walk into a bar and the bartender says, “Did you see the wall or bridge when ya walked in…?”[9]

Thinking this sounded familiar and worried about what was to come, Gordon left right then for the land of the Tongas - a truly magnificent place. 

Believing he had gotten away from all of his problems Gordon let his guard down on his way to Southern and was nearly ruined for it when he ran into the troll of the Luangwa Bridge: the Contemptible Choe – a beast known for his cheeky and uncivil temperament.  He only had to pay 7 Kwacha to pass, because luckily he had his ARC card with him, so he got a resident rate.[10]

Along the edge of Victoria Falls he spied the Adamson Crane, a bird of such grace and elegance that Gordon nearly contraed over the fall’s edge.  And perhaps he would have if it hadn’t been for a nearby frolicking Zip named Alan Lamp.[11]

He said, “You’re a birder?”

“I am,” replied Gordon.

“Don’t look for the birds on your own, look for the bird master.”  He then enigmatically pointed towards Central Province.  Off Gordon pranced. 

At the Kapiri turnoff he was feeling slightly hungry, so he stopped to buy a Shwarma at the Continental.  In front of him was a Texan with tattoos covering much of his body.  Of particular note was a Cap’n Crunch inking. 

Along the way he passed a sun-kissed California bird of prey – the Boyd’s Falcon, but he knew he was close when he encountered the Wizened Russ Owl.  An usually distinguished owl with the pension for eating rabbits, the Russ Owl seemed to not even notice Gordon. 

Gordon looked tiredly at the Russ and asked, “Am I close? Please, tell me I’m close.”

“Just ahead, around the trail’s bend,” Russ hooted.

He crept up and there, ten meters to the left, was Pete Wrublewski, the most famous birder in the world – someone all should look up to.  So at peace with nature it was as if he were hugging it.  Gordon whispered, “Pete Wrublewski, I presume?”[12]

“Can I help you? Ikaleni mukwai.[13] But… please don’t touch me.” was the nearly inaudible reply.
Gordon couldn’t sit.  This was his hero.  He could barely stop dancing due to his excitement.
Finally he managed to ask, “What bird are you here to study?” 

“I’m not studying birds today.  I’m here to see THE LORAX.  Shh…. Here he comes.”

There, not there but just there, very near, into the clearing, on the forest’s edge stepped Henry – THE LORAX.[14]  A sight to behold.  A smile to envy – from ear to ear – and the finesse of a leopard on the prowl.  He was clearly one with the trees.  But, as quickly as THE LORAX appeared, it vanished.
Gordon cried out, “That was amazing.  A LORAX!”

And Pete said, “In my years here, during my time, I’ve seen a lot of birds, but only the occasional LORAX.  It’s sad though, because things they are a-changing.  When I first began we had so many birds, now some are gone and others are even extinct.  The Screaching Savage – truly an annoyance.  The Craig Andrews-Jones, which I loved dearly, but it too left too soon.  The Albertson from Mkushi was a small, chatty little bird.  The Cricklair Hawk – local lore says it migrated to lands with more zeros.  The Alf Owl: small, but packed a full punch of energy.  The SB was a nonchalant bird ranging between Lundazi and California, and there was even the Patricia Parrot.  She was as a bird should be: graceful, good natured, and wise.  And now, they’re gone.  More will be following, I’m sure.”

Gordon listened and looked on before thoughtfully replying, “About times like these 2 Pac once said, pour one out for my homies.”  He reached down, poured some Jolly Jus for he and Pete and they soaked the red soil with the sugary elixir… for their homies.

For a few moments they sat there quietly – contemplating - when Gordon broke the silence by saying, “Unfortunately I need to be going.  I don’t have enough cultural days to linger for much longer.  Thank you though.  Thank you so much. “  He tried to give Pete a hug but that didn’t work... not that it was rejected, but rather it just wasn’t reciprocated.  Seems he was serious about not wanting to be touched.  So instead, he did a small contra dance to show his thanks and off he went.

On his flight home, as he was thinking about the distances he had covered and all he had seen, the neighbor next to him asked, “How was your trip?”

Gordon said, “It was more of an experience, a once in a lifetime experience.  It all went by so fast, but it changed me forever.  It was great.”[15]

“Wonderf!”  Ba Anthony said, smiling.  “Truly wonderf.”



[1] If you’ve ever been to Karaoke with me then you’ll know that I absolutely love this song.  Did you know that Bono was once in the Peace Corps?  I lied, he wasn’t.
[2] Megan has Kopala Swag for sure – the name Bemba rappers give their… appeal – and she’s been in a Zam-video or two in her life.
[3] Think Harvey Tiles.
[4] I went on Second Site Visit with the LIFE 2014 trainees to Chandra’s site and after the visit I went to Tang with Smiley.  While there we met some Greek guys that owned a fishing company.  Smiley wanted to become a fisherman one night and said, “All I have to do is learn Greek and build a boat.”  Thus, the boat building reference.
[5] On that Second Site Visit, one of the trainees kept pronouncing Chandra’s name “Chan-dra.”  This bothered Chandra a bit.  It had to be in the story.
[6] We all remember this, yes?
[7] This one is two fold.  First, Drew loved Swedish House Mafia when he was in Zambia, so this seemed like an obvious choice for his entrance music.  Secondly, if memory serves me right he liked the movie Sandlot a lot.  His speech to Gordon comes from the scene when Babe Ruth’s ghost speaks to Benny “The Jet” Rodriguez.
[8] When Lauren’s out dancing she does this kind of stomp thing on the dance floor.  It’s really hard to describe, but you would know it if you saw it.
[9] During our PST Caleb presented on Zambian humor versus American humor.  For the American’s he told a joke about a man that had sexual relations with a goat.  This is how that joke started.
[10] An allusion to our post-IST trip when many of us went to Vic Falls and I didn’t have an ARC card, so they wanted me to pay tourist prices.  Probably no one but me remembers this.
[11] Stupidly I called Aaron the name Alan for the first 10 minutes of our ever meeting eachother in Washington D.C.  I think I must have said “Alan” at least 7 times before he kindly corrected me.
[12] It’s said that when H.M. Stanley met David Livingstone, Stanley said, “Dr. Livingstone, I presume?”  I just assume a meeting between these two would be of the same historical importance, and would use the same simple line.
[13] Obviously Pete would speak Bemba at least once in a meeting here in country.  He’s Pete “Ee Mukwai” Wrublewski afterall.
[14] Directions…. Grr.  Why are they so difficult here? 
[15] I truly am sad it’s over.  It did all go by too fast, but it was worth all of the ups and downs, days and hours, and everything in between.  It was a pleasure being in Zambia with all of you.  Keep doing good things!  And, please, in the U.S. always say “Zed”, never “Zee.”

The Nightmare of Transport


Every Peace Corps Volunteer has a story or two about the time when they took the trip from hell, usually while using public transportation.
I would even go so far as saying that anyone who has ever visited a developing country has similar tales of terror, frustration and hours spent doing nothing but waiting and nursing transportation-induced headaches.
I’m no different. I hate traveling.
This is the road outside of my house, M8.  It's a very, very nice road for anywhere - not just Zambia.  Only one problem... not much traffic, which is probably the reason it's still a nice road.
In Zambia, there’s an array of transport options, but none are great in their efficiency, speed or even safety. And all of them can cause a significant migraine.
Essentially, options here in Zambia come down to planes, trains and automobiles — like everywhere else. But then there is the infrastructure, which is more or less what you would expect — not so great.
Planes would be the best option in that they’re fast, fairly reliable and without the constant bouncing and jostling of hours on this country’s roadways (which sometimes resemble Michigan’s after a hard winter).
However, the price puts me out of luck, as my meager monthly stipend doesn’t allow me to travel through the friendly skies. So, I have to go to plan B and C: automobiles and trains.
In cities these minibuses are one of the main forms of transportation, the other being taxis.  They can carry around 15 passengers, but in Kenya I once rode in one that carried 23.  Awful.
Automobiles consist of buses and private cars, and both of these are at the mercy of road conditions and the skill of other motorists.
For example, one section of road (about 150 miles long) used to take two hours to traverse, but in recent months it has fallen into a pock-marked, crater-strewn stretch of road in such disrepair that traveling it now takes more than four hours.
And taking the buses, even on good roads, can be uncomfortable.
A lot of volunteers hitch-hike in Zambia.  Myself included, although I hate it more than anything else.  It's, to me, the worst way to travel.  Here my friend Dan is trying to flag us a ride.  The hitching sign here is a wave of the hand.  This is what Paul Simon is alluding to in his song "Diamonds On the Soles of Her Shoes" when he sings, "She makes the sign of the teaspoon and he makes the sign of the wave."  The wave is for further distances, while the teaspoon is for just around, or near, an area.  It should be noted that PC doesn't like us to hitch, but transport - as I complain about throughout this article - is difficult... anything is welcomed.
I’m pretty wide so being packed into a bus with five seats across isn’t the most comfortable of experiences, and then add in the ever-present chickens, goats and babies making an assortment of noises and smells, and I assure you it is just delightful.
I would be wrong in not mentioning the bus stations. They’re small depots spread across the country, and all are packed with buses, freight and other travelers — including peddlers of stuff most people would never want to buy, the occasional pick-pocket, food vendors and even black market currency exchange agents. It’s a small slice of mankind’s different sides.
Here a PC cruiser has just gotten a flat tire near the capital.  We use these beastly machines because most volunteers work in remote areas where the roads are exceptionally terrible.
The other automobile-related option is to use a car, which isn’t really an option, as volunteers aren’t allowed to own cars.
So, sometimes we try to hitchhike, which is strongly discouraged by the Peace Corps. I can’t reiterate that enough. But sometimes you just have to because there’s no other option.
There is also the train. This is the most time-consuming and unreliable method of travel.
But this option is used by a lot of vacationers who travel from Zambia to Tanzania. Leaving twice per week and taking around 72 hours, but costing only $60, the train is a good way to pass the days away in transit, at least going there. I rode it back too and nearly pulled my hair out from the monotony.
The train to Tanzania.  Fun on the way there, awful on the way back.  
The days are spent rocking and rolling in swaying train cars where windows open up to a continuously changing countryside, of which baobab trees, mountains, African villages, giraffes, baboons and impala slip by.
The train is far from perfect though. It has all the Third World amenities a person could ask for, with none of the luxuries I so hoped for. The price should have given this away I suppose.
There are options for traveling in Africa, but without deep pockets, a budget traveler is forced to rely on other, more bone-jarring and patience-trying routes.
In the end though I’ve at least got a couple years’ worth of stories to bring out at dinner parties. The kind that say, “Hey, look at me…I rode a train out of Central Africa, into East Africa, all while a chicken sat on my lap and a guy tried to sell me used underwear.”
That’s probably worth the trip.
Notice the sweat on my chest in this photo.  This is a dolla-dolla in Zanzibar.  It wasn't terrible, but that place was hot.  So, all I wanted was an A/C-cooled vehicle.  Nope, I got this pink, airy box to cruise around in.